Lanolin
Emollient / OcclusiveINCI: Lanolin
Also known as: Wool wax, wool grease
A sebum-like wool-derived emollient that is also a recognised contact allergen.
What it is
Lanolin is a waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals and refined from sheep's wool. It is a complex mixture of esters, alcohols, sterols and fatty acids, with a composition notably similar to human sebum, which is why it behaves on skin much like the skin's own oil.
Function
Lanolin acts as an emollient and occlusive. It softens skin and forms a barrier that slows trans-epidermal water loss. Its sebum-like structure makes it an effective moisturiser, and it appears in moisturisers, wound-care products and nappy-rash creams.
Properties
Comedogenicity data is mixed, with some lanolin fractions showing comedogenic effects in testing while certain finished products test non-comedogenic. Its more significant property is allergenicity: lanolin is a recognised contact allergen, named Contact Allergen of the Year for 2023 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. It is characterised as a weak but common sensitiser, frequently identified in patch testing.
In tattoo aftercare
Lanolin appears in some traditional aftercare products and in nappy-rash creams (such as Bepanthen) commonly repurposed for tattoos, included for its moisturising and barrier properties. A number of newer aftercare brands specifically formulate without it and market themselves as lanolin-free.
Considerations
As a recognised contact allergen, lanolin carries a sensitisation risk that is relevant on freshly tattooed, broken skin. Patch testing on unbroken skin before use is commonly advised for those with eczema, chronic dermatitis or known contact allergies. Lanolin-free alternatives with similar emollient function include shea butter and plant-based barrier butters.
References
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)Safety Assessment of Lanolin-Derived Ingredients
- Jenkins BA, Belsito DV. Lanolin. Dermatitis. 2023;34(1):4-12
- American Contact Dermatitis SocietyContact Allergen of the Year, 2023
This is general, factual information about a cosmetic ingredient, not medical advice or a product recommendation. If your skin reacts to anything during healing, stop using it and speak to your artist or a GP.
